Wine Enthusiast Magazine
SubscribeOnce upon a time, in the 1960s, Pinot Noir was practically nonexistent in America. But then a young winemaker named David Lett, educated in California, moved to the Willamette Valley, founded The Eyrie Vineyard and with many years of hard work put Pinot Noir on the map.
Jump to the 1970s and practically no one had heard of Syrah either. A young winemaker named Gary Eberle began working with this Rhone grape variety at the Estrella River Winery in Paso Robles, and pretty soon founded his own winery to make Syrah as well as other wines. Paso Robles became synonymous with Syrah as the varietal became a staple on wine lists and in home cellars.
Similar trend-setters are laboring today to perfect the next unique varietals. In the early stages of a grape’s introduction to North America we don’t always know who the eventual masters of it are, though. Take Tempranillo, the Spanish grape that forms the backbone of Rioja’s elegant, and Ribera del Duero’s powerful, wines.
I recently tasted nine current-release California-grown Tempranillos and was pleasantly surprised at how consistently good they were. Not great, but definitely good. Not like the introduction of other varieties in the state that at first came out insipid and too oaky (Sangiovese), herbal and too oaky (Merlot, and I’m dating myself), or too heavy and too oaky (Pinot Noir).
None of the Tempranillos seemed severely oaky and they almost all offered a good shot of ripe fruit to balance out the oak flavors they did have. I didn’t pick up on a really distinctive varietal character, however, and that’s one of the criticisms of Tempranillo in general. You remember a fine Rioja more for its cigar box spiciness and balance than for any fruit signature, and you remember Ribera Del Dueros like Pesquera for their tannins and intensity.
Coral Mustang winery specializes in Tempranillo. They made 1,000 cases of a tasty, juicy, medium-bodied Vista Creek Vineyard 2005 bottling ($24) from Paso Robles. Their 2004 was more rich and complex. Bray Vineyards is in the Sierra Foothills region of Shenandoah Valley, and made a firm-textured, also medium-style 2005 Tempranillo with a California appellation because a portion was sourced from nearby Lodi in the Central Valley.
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard’s 2004 Tempranillo Central Coast ($18) from the Pierce Ranch is the winery’s second release. It’s exotic, but I can’t help thinking that the smoky earthy aroma is from Brettanomyces and that sours it a bit for me. Twisted Oak 2005 Calaveras County Tempranillo ($24) is attractive and rich, with ample spicy, oaky accents and rounded texture. It’s their third vintage of Tempranillo.
Barreto Cellars in Arroyo Grande on the Central Coast specializes in Portugese and Spanish varieties and they’re selling two tasty but contrasting Tempranillos from 2004. The Lodi-grown version ($17) is ripe, full-textured and almost raisiny in flavor yet comes in at a reasonable 14.5 alcohol. Their 2004 from Paso Robles ($24) is more firm with acid and tannins and more vibrant, as you’d expect from this somewhat cooler coast-influenced area. Michael Barreto points out that in Portugal Tinto Roriz is the name for Tempranillo, and that his fruit is sourced from vines identified that way.
My two favorite Tempranillos right now are also a study in contrasts. For pure flavor and a great price, you’ve got to love the Tantalus 2004 from Lodi’s Terra Alta vineyard ($15). It’s rich, broad, yummy. Even better is the first release of Tempranillo from an estate vineyard in Lake County, founded by Kaj Ahlmann. His Six Sigma Christian’s Vineyard 2005 ($42) is big but polished, with lots of black cherry and ripe plum backed by firm tannins, fresh acidity and a lingering finish.
Ten years from now we’ll look back and one of these wineries may have turned out to be the Tempranillo pioneer of California.
Filed under: Regions, Varietals
19 Comments
19 Responses to “California’s Tempranillo Frontier”
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August 23rd, 2007 at 3:38:36 PM
Twisted Oak actually makes a pretty strong Tempranillo as well. You might want to give them a try…
http://www.wineq.com/wine/twisted-2004-temp
I think its a good example of CA Tempranillo and should be in that “potential pioneer” ten years from now as well!
August 23rd, 2007 at 5:26:15 PM
I tasted Twisted Oak. The 2005 (?) Calaveras County Tempranillo ($24?) was very good.
August 23rd, 2007 at 6:22:18 PM
hi Jim – we’re curious how you were able to taste the Twisted Oak 2005 Tempranillo since we haven’t released it yet…? I suspect you tasted the 2004, which would be our third vintage of Tempranillo (or anything, for that matter :)
Other Calaveras wineries that produce Tempranillo include Hatcher and Stevenot. In the search for a US pioneer for Tempranillo, you would have to consider Stevenot – the earliest vintage of which I can recall tasting was 1997. (Another would be Abacela in Oregon.) There are several of us up here messing around with Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo and other Iberian varietals.
Also, there is a fledgling trade group “TAPAS” that has formed to promote Tempranillo and other Iberian varietals. A few of our members are mentioned in your post. Interested wineries, vineyards, and amigos can learn more at http://www.tapasociety.org/
thanks! – j
August 23rd, 2007 at 6:49:01 PM
I’m not a Tempranillo expert but I thought it was a strong showing in general.
August 23rd, 2007 at 6:59:53 PM
Hi – Jim, I’ve given Twisted Oak Temps 85, 86 points, so I didn’t like them as much as you seem. Anyhow, I’ve never been able to give more than a 90 to a California Temp. Too soft and simple across the board. The best have been (over the last 10 or so years) rather scattershot bottles, with no one winery standing out as having a consistent track record. You’re right on one thing: Six Sigma. I tasted that (but didn’t rate it) just about 2 years ago from barrel with Kaj,and it blew my mind. I told him right on the spot it was the best California Tempranillo I’d ever had, and do you know what he said? He said that Roger Voss had been traveling through Lake County a little while earlier, had tasted the same wine, and had said the same thing!
August 23rd, 2007 at 10:30:21 PM
I’m still a rookie in the wine trade, but from my understanding traditional Rioja wines see a lot of oak and in particular American oak. I know a lot of newer Spanish Tempranillo bottlings are seeing less and less oak, but my question arises from your statement that the problem with California Tempranillo was that it saw too much oak(I extrapolated this from the preceding comments). Though some Spanish wines dominant in Tempranillo may be over-oaked, is your abhorrence for over-oaked Tempranillo based on the fruit conditions in California or a preference for less oaked Tempranillo in general (Spain included).
Thanks
August 23rd, 2007 at 11:49:20 PM
Theo: Good point about the traditional role of oak in Rioja. American oak was the norm but new oak was not that common, as I understand it. The over-oaking in Rioja tended to be a result of leaving wine too long in older oak until it just tasted tired and marginally oxidized. I was being snarky about new varietals in California being overoaked, because I think the most common mistake here is aging new types of wines in a high percentage of new oak, as if every bin of fermented must came from Chateau Latour. I think the California Tempranillos I tasted were generally and admirably moderate in their use of new oak. I invite the comments of others on the current use of oak in Rioja.
August 24th, 2007 at 1:53:45 AM
For what it is worth, WE has also rated Twisted Oak’s Tempranillo called “The Spaniard” 91 (2004) and 92 (2002) – according to the WE site those were rated by Mr. Heimoff. (…and not that points particularly matter or anything…) Also, both of those wines were 65% Tempranillo, if that counts.
August 24th, 2007 at 10:26:01 AM
Right — I did give higher marks to those 2 wines, but they were not pure Tempranillo. They were Tempranillo blends, with Cabernet Sauvignon and (in the case of the 2002) Cab and Petit Verdot added. The addition of the Bordeaux varieties gave much-needed weight and depth to the wines, which is why they scored higher.
August 25th, 2007 at 3:23:14 PM
I think the Temps you rated from us were 80% Temp, not 100%. (For anyone else who may still be reading :) varietal-designated wines can be blended with up to 25% other varietals and still retain the varietal designation – e.g., a bottle labeled Merlot can contain up to 25% other grapes like Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot etc.) Thanks!
September 3rd, 2007 at 4:35:40 AM
It might also be worth mentioning that Coral Mustang makes one of the only Tempranillo Rosés in California. (Others include Verdad Wines and Gundlach-Bundschu). It earned itself a Silver at the SF Chronicle tasting in the Dry Rosé category and, according to Coral Mustang’s website, a Mr. Jim Gordon gave it 89 points!
September 17th, 2007 at 10:41:17 PM
I have been reading about wine for about three years now and I am a little confused about Tempranillo in California. I understand that Tempranillo is basically Pinot that was taken from france and palnted in the soils of Spain and renamed…as well as in Toro with Tinta de Toro(again renamed but bascially the same grape). So, the Cali producers are taking cuttings from the vines in spain and planting them? I just don’t see the point of haveing Cali Pinot noir and Cali tempranillo? The spanish don’t differentiate so why is California trying? Your thoughts…Cheers!
October 4th, 2007 at 2:28:43 PM
Dudes:
you missed several of the players at the table. Cayuse Vineyards, Spencer Roloson Winery, Core Cellars, Villa Creek and Bokisch Ranches. All are making really profound examples with typicity and balance great exctract etc. The six sigma is nice too. The Spaniard rocks and basically the rest are tepid at best.
Kevin,
Tempranillo is genetically distinct from Pinot Noir and is planted throughout Spain what is planted in the Duero is a separate selection from Toro or Rioja, although still considered Tempranillo. In California there are a handfull of clones and some suitcase selections that are being planted.
November 26th, 2007 at 4:49:43 PM
I’ve not tried the Twisted Oak Tempranillo, but another from Lake County that is at the top of my list of California examples of the varietal is Spencer Roloson’s Madder Lake Tempranillo from the Lake Coutny appellation. Maybe Lake County’s volcanic soils and high elevation vineyards are a good match for the varietal…
November 27th, 2007 at 11:22:07 AM
Volcanic soils and high elevation do seem like a good match for the varietal – exactly what we have loads of here in the foothills…;)
September 24th, 2008 at 1:29:57 AM
Jim, not sure how you happen to mention our Bray Vineyards Tempranillo, but pleased that you did. Several good Temps out there.. Twisted Oak included! The future of this wine appears very bright in California… and not sure that we need to try and replicate the many Riojas… different dirt, different wine. Ours is all Tempranillo and that is our preferred style… just love it!
December 17th, 2009 at 6:42:09 PM
Is there a California Tempranillo that is made similar or very much like a Rioja?
March 31st, 2012 at 5:31:48 PM
Has anyone tried the Tempranillo from Drytown Vineyards in Drytown,Calif. How about there wines in general also?
March 31st, 2012 at 5:33:11 PM
Sorry It Is a 2010,Shenandoah Valley,Ca. Produced and bottled at Drytown Cellars,Drytown Calif.