It’s wise for a guy to have a good plan in advance of Valentine’s Day. I’ve learned this after too many Valentine’s Days when I tried to rush around San Francisco or New York at the last minute to find a gift of jewelry, chocolate or flowers. This year my gift is going to be a quiet, romantic dinner, where I spend a lot of time gazing into her hazel eyes, and not at the wine list.

Here’s what I’m thinking our evening will involve, at the table, that is. I just have to decide whether I’m buying the sushi and dessert as takeout and then cooking the quail, or if we’re dining out. What’s more romantic, anyway, cooking for your partner or dining out in style?

Sushi with Bubbly
Quail with Pinot Noir
Chocolate with Port

Ah, but why and what?

Sushi with Bubbly: It’s an infallible way to get the dinner going. Bubbly is not just for special occasions, of course, but there’s no reason you can’t have it on a special occasion. We love sushi, and I think it makes a great pairing with Champagne or another sparkling wine.

So that’s how we’ll start. I’m thinking that a fresh, young multi-vintage bubbly would be best, one with a decent amount of fruit flavor (not too steely) and a hint of residual sugar, which is an accurate description of many bottles labeled simply Brut.

Here, I’m thinking of Argyle from Oregon, or even Gruet from New Mexico, which I had two weeks ago for the first time in years, and it was perfect for this, or maybe a nice, plush and light Piper Heidsieck or Nicolas Feuillatte from Champagne.

This is not the time to have a killer, vintage-dated masterpiece, but to enjoy my partner’s company and the freshest sushi we can find.

Quail with Pinot Noir: So now we’ve warmed to each other and the occasion. Let’s have a soul-satisfying roast quail — could be duck, instead — and the one wine that’s almost universally described as seductive: Pinot Noir. It worked for Miles in “Sideways” (especially in the book) and it could work again for me, or you.

A good Pinot Noir is not as noir as it sounds. It’s medium-bodied, not dreadfully deep in color, and has a fragrant blend of woodsy, fruity, spicey aromas. It’s not going to be harsh or tannic in your mouth, but supple, firm and delicious. Yes, I think this is going to work.

Picking apart half a quail can be a little messy, but it will get the two of us further into the realm of the senses, where we want to spend the rest of the evening. Quail is also a fairly light entree that should pair well with Pinot and then leave some room for dessert.

As for the Pinot, I’d love a Chambolle-Musigny, which to me has just the right combination of fruit and suppleness for this occasion. Any number of Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs should fit the bill, too. They’re usually well-balanced and not too pushy, like some California Pinots can be. I’m in the Willamette Valley the early part of this week, and I had a glass of King Estate Signature 2005 that would fill the bill, but there are many other options.

Chocolate and Port: I know that a lot of people tout the combo of chocolate and Cabernet, chocolate and Merlot, even chocolate and Zinfandel. But I think the best match is Port. I could, of course, choose a domestic port-style dessert wine which a reader of this blog named “Forto” recently, but it’s probably going to be a Port, from Portugal.

I had a 1970 Dow at the Wine Star Awards dinner recently and it was terrific. I normally would say to enjoy a ruby Port or a 20-year aged tawny Port with chocolate, but that 38-year-old Dow was drinking beautifully. As long as the chocolate dessert is not too sugary, it will be fantastic.

The whole reason I’m working through this plan now, is that I don’t want to do it on the spot on Thursday evening. I couldn’t blame her for getting bored while I’m spending 20 minutes on the wine list. I should be looking into those eyes and remembering the things I first loved about her. And all the other things I love about her after 21 years.

I’d like to hear what other people are planning. What makes the most romantic dinner for you?

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