Lucky me. I’m just back from a trip to Germany’s Pfalz region, researching a feature scheduled for the November issue. I don’t want to give away the story, but it got me thinking that whenever I visit a wine region, I look to experience more than just the area’s vinous delights by trying whatever local food specialties I can find. It helps me gain a more complete understanding of the region, and how that region’s wines fit within their local context. To me, it’s also just a natural part of exploring anyplace new.
This trip, asparagus and strawberries were in season. I didn’t know it before I arrived, but asparagus is a big deal in this part of Germany, and the first restaurant I dined in actually had two different asparagus menus—one long (five courses) and one short (three courses). Since I was still jet-lagged, I opted for the short version. Most restaurants listed asparagus as a special, letting you order by weight and then add accompaniments, like schnitzel, for a modest supplement.

Saumagen—stuffed pig stomach—never goes out of season in the Pfalz, it seems. It’s a fixture on menus, listed above or below bratwurst mit rieslingkraut, a carb-free lunch for those of us who (occasionally) watch these things. Yet over the years, I’ve found that these seasonal and regional specialties often go beyond the expected. Yes, I’ve had green-lipped mussels in New Zealand, but I’ve also caught and eaten blue cod from the Marlborough Sounds and dined on fried whitebait. Both go well (no surprise!) with Sauvignon Blanc. Oysters in July? Of course, when they’re harvested from the waters off South Australia and paired with Clare or Eden Valley Riesling. Last year, I was lucky enough to be in France’s Rhône Valley near the end of May, when the cherries and apricots were in season. Roadside stands abounded, offering these jewels to passing motorists moments after they were picked. Snacking on such fresh, delectable fruit from a brown paper bag between appointments is as lasting a memory as the best wines I tried on that trip, and made visiting the Rhône that much more special.

What regional specialties or seasonal foods have you discovered during your trips to wine country?

Tasting Director and Senior Editor Joe Czerwinski joined Wine Enthusiast Magazine in 1999 as an associate editor. In addition to managing the entire tasting and review program, he reviews wines from France, Germany, Australia and New Zealand.

Be Sociable, Share!

•