With the economy faltering, restaurants across the country are taking a painful hit. Even in Manhattan where I live, a quick walk-by of usually bustling eateries gives the impression that more people are cooking at home. But for diligent diners nationwide, the downturn can actually be a bonus. Where wresting a table at buzzy joints was akin to an audience with the Pope a year ago, tables for mere mortals are becoming available at short notice. Special “happy hour” prices for both food and drinks are appearing at upscale establishments that in the past had no need of offering value. And small plates menus, though not a new trend, seem to be increasing—a strategic approach for budget-minded gourmets who may want to taste what the restaurant has to offer without splurging on a $40-plus entrée.

Varying degrees of this new way of thinking were apparent to me this past week in my own culinary meanderings—I dined at three diverse and equally impressive restaurants: The recently opened Tarry Lodge in Port Chester, New York, the new venture by Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali (among others); Haven in Manhattan’s Midtown East, also newly opened and whose menus are conceived by former Mercer Kitchen chef Kay Choe; and Graffiti in Manhattan’s East Village, the 14-month-old food and wine bar of cookbook author and celebrated pastry provocateur Jehangir Mehta.

All three restaurants specialize in eclectic, small plate offerings at reasonable prices. Two of them, Graffiti and Haven, focus on global cuisine (a shrimp dish from Thailand, Argentine flank steak) and eclectic wines by the glass (think German Rivaner, Hegre Nache from Spain) offering a way for budget-minded diners to trot the globe without the pricey airfare. It reminded me that whether you cook eclectic cuisine at home or dine out, wine and food is an adventure—an excellent way to explore mentally in a time when travel takes a back seat.

At Tarry Lodge, located in a gleaming, century-old building, the journey ranges all over Italy, and the fare is hardly predictable. Plates like Armandino’s salumi (made by Batali’s father), guanciale (pork jowl), black truffle and sunny-side egg pizza and brasato al Barolo with polenta and horseradish smack of being hand-picked by Batali, Bastianich and Chef Andy Nusser—giving diners the feeling of jaunting around Italy with insiders as culinary guides. Splurge a bit with the grilled lamb chops. They’re succulent and perfectly prepared—you won’t be disappointed. Bastianich himself works the room and aids diners with wine choices, whether they’re eating an $8 plate of rock shrimp or a $60 ribeye for two. The wine list is surprising and Bastianich chose a delicious and affordable 2005 Montefalco Rosso for us that bridged a range of flavors and dishes. I was impressed with how respectful he was of budget—no attitude whatsoever.

Haven’s ambiance—think funky English manor meets Victorian brothel—is part of its charm, but the globetrotting small plates menu and imaginative wines by the glass list are both fun and educational. Again, Haven’s menu feels like it was hand-selected by the absent eccentric jetsetter in whose “house” you are kicking back. Two to three small plates are enough to fill you up and won’t break the bank by any means. The lobster risotto and Thai duckling meatballs are outstanding. I mixed it up with Rivaner, a Rhône red and a Washington Cab. I love that more restaurants around the country are having fun with their by the glass menus and really pushing interesting, affordable wines. It’s about time.

The bargain traveling ended yesterday at Graffiti, a closet-sized small plates spot in the East Village. I smelled the rich spices before I even opened the door—a good sign. Like the Tarry Lodge, Graffiti had a homey, personal touch with Mehta working the floor, discussing the exotic, Ayurvedic-influenced nibbles and pouring our wine. The fair, fixed per-glass price of $8 made wine choices easy and invited experimenting. So did the beautifully spiced, aromatic dishes—we had a chili shrimp and a dish of skate to die for and walked out of there with some money left in our pockets.

It’s a grim world out there and nearly everyone has been financially impacted in some way. But thanks to creative chefs and clued-in restaurateurs, there are deals to be had in the gourmet world for the diner who wants to continue to live the good life of wine and food, but is watching his/her pennies.

What creative approaches have you seen restaurants taking in this downturn? What do you wish you were seeing more of?

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