Wine Enthusiast Magazine
SubscribeRestaurants: Mind the Pace and Give Me Some Space
by Susan Kostrzewa
There has been much talk, including in my own recent UnReserved post, about the efforts restaurants are making to attract customers during tough economic times. Slashed prices, freebies, more wines by the glass, waiving of corkage—all are new tactics that smart restaurateurs are using to get diners in seats. The idea that “the customer is king” is an intelligent approach when so many people are reluctant to go out. I wish I could say that all of my own recent experiences dining out in New York reinforced this approach, but unfortunately, they didn’t.
Sure, in many cases prices were cut, and special deals were being offered. And there were a few stellar experiences that proved to be on the mark. But my biggest pet peeve with restaurants today is the timing. Three recent experiences dining out were all about being rushed out of our seats because the eatery was trying to turn over some extra tables. At first, I blew it off and empathized—after all, these were weekend dinners and most of the business these places are doing is happening on the weekend. I was pretty understanding, even when the waiter was hovering over my husband and I until we rushed through dessert and paid the bill on a date night that was supposed to be romantic.
Sadly, this was not an isolated incident. I’m used to a fast pace in New York, but plates being brought out before appetizers are done—the whole table filled with the dishes that should have been spread out throughout the night? Questions of wine and cocktail refills coming two minutes after we received the first drink? And then the inevitable lurking of the waiters–unsolicited check in hand–around tables of people (including us) who were by no means lingering, but were trying to enjoy the experience of being out on a precious dime, not wolfing their food down in a fast-food frenzy.
I understand restaurants need to make money and I am certain these servers are being told to move people through as fast as possible, but this hand-wringing rush needs to be tempered soon. Much of why we pay to go to a restaurant and not cook at home or order in is to enjoy the atmosphere, the ambiance, the experience. Pushing people out of the seat is not only insulting; it ruins the whole point of being there.
Have you experienced the same thing in your recent dining outings? What’s your feeling on restaurant timing, in good times and in bad?
Filed under: New York, Opinions and Commentary, Restaurants and Food
6 Comments
6 Responses to “Restaurants: Mind the Pace and Give Me Some Space”
Please Wait
February 25th, 2009 at 11:00:48 AM
Something must be said to the waitstaff so this doesn’t happen over and over.
February 25th, 2009 at 4:51:14 PM
I totally agree. Since my husband and I don’t often get to go out to dinner anymore (unless it’s baby friendly), when we do get the chance, we want to have an intimate, unhurried meal. Unfortunately it doesn’t always happen. I guess the best way to keep that from happening is to purposely choose someplace that doesn’t have a lot of foot traffic. Sure, it may not be in the hot area of town or have a big name, but sometimes the small unknown places take the best care of you.
February 25th, 2009 at 5:19:00 PM
Well I haven’t been pushed out the door, so to speak, but I have noticed a change in my favorite local restaurant. On Valentines day, the wife and I dined out, child free, like adults again. It seemed the normal perfect service was gone. Instead my glass was empty, my table was filled with dishes, and I had to ask for the desert menu. When I looked for our server, he was running around like a wild man. It seemed like our favorite place was short on staff. Maybe my experience was the flip side of the same recession coin. I don’t know what is worse, to much love or no love at all.
February 25th, 2009 at 7:00:25 PM
Just had a similar experience recently. Four of us were out to dinner at a popular restaurant and were finishing up our dessert when the owner came over to our table and said “I don’t mean to rush you, but we have a 9:30 seating to prepare for.” Actually, he DID mean to rush me — he just couldn’t find a more creative way to push me out of the restaurant.
March 1st, 2009 at 1:38:45 PM
My two biggest pet peeves when going out to dine are rushed service and no service (ie. You don’t see your waiter during the whole meal except as they see you take your last bite and then come over and ask “How was everything?” At this point it’s too late to ask for a side of mustard, etc.).
There are people who go out to dinner that want to be “in and out” quickly. Whether they are on lunch/dinner break, going to a movie or show afterwards, or just need to get home because of a baby sitter.
It is up to the rest of us who want a leisurely dinner to be vocal about our needs. We are the paying customer but can’t expect the waitstaff to know our shedule for the evening. I have learned how to not have all the courses at my table before I am ready. It’s quite simple. Do not order your entire meal at the beginning. Order your drinks and appetizers if you are going to have them. Then once those arrive if you decide to have a soup and salad before the meal it is time to order those. And to make sure they don’t both arrive at the same time I usually say “Ill have the soup and the salad but can you wait until the soup is done before you bring out the salad? That would be great. Thanks!” (Don’t forget your manners). Even if you know what you want for the main course do not order it yet (lie if you have to and tell them that you haven’t quite made up your mind yet). Once YOU are ready it is time to place your order. If the waiter/waitress keeps coming back to ask if you have decided (remember they are just doing thier job) tell them you will turn the menu over so that they will know that you are ready.
The biggest thing to remember is to tip appropriately. If you have been at the table and noticed that the other tables around you have been turned over 2 or 3 times that you are taking away the opportunity for the waiter to have had additional tables. I usually go out to eat at lunch time and can take an hour and a half for my meal. I usually tip anywhere between 25 and 40 percent and sometimes 100 percent or more.
March 3rd, 2009 at 3:30:41 PM
I lived in Europe for many years and often went out to eat there. Dining was an experience, not 45″ at the “eating trough” I say that because I detest the style of American eateries today. I won’t go out to eat. I don’t want to get indigestion. I don’t want to know my waiter’s name, life history and as in Outback’s case I don’t want the wait staff sitting down at the table to talk with me and take an order in a folksy way.
I prefer professional wait staff who in a polite, quiet manner take my order and then GO AWAY allowing me to digest my food. I understand economics of restaurants, having worked side by side for many years with friends who owned various types of restaurants and cafes. But this American obsession with rushing me through. which has grown noticeably worse in the last 10 years while I was away, has driven me away from restaurants. I’ll buy some nice lamb chops or a steak. some beautiful fresh vegetables to grill, a beautiful bottle of wine and recreate a pleasant evening at a restaurant for myself and friends before I return to what these restauranteurs provide as a poor excuse for a dining experience!