Learning the Language of Exotic Wines

 
Monday, April 6th, 2009 at 12:31:28 PM
by Susan Kostrzewa

greece.jpg

Growing up with a surname that inevitably baffles everyone outside of Poland (I’ve learned to answer to pretty much anything at this point, including “Susan Kossserrrr, huh?”), I know how difficult names and words can frighten even the most worldly Americans.  Perhaps it’s fitting then that some of the wine regions I cover as a taster for Wine Enthusiast are grappling with the same issues I have since I can remember. Emerging areas such as Greece, Hungary and South Africa are keen to put themselves on the domestic map, but often the producer names and/or variety names are so strange or seemingly unknown to the average U.S drinker that they pause for a moment, consider adventure, and move on to grab a tried and true Cabernet or Merlot that doesn’t pose as much of a “risk.”

I understand that in a time when everyone is watching wallets, risky purchasing doesn’t make a lot of sense. But I also know that to pass by these wines because of the language barrier is to miss some of the most interesting, affordable and surprising wines on the market. So consider these exotic sips the next time you shop–you’ll broaden your palate’s horizons while at the same time enjoying wines that match your taste:

Greece: Assyrtico. Gravitate toward crisp, dry whites like Grüner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc? This clean, lively native variety has a minerally character and high acids, with citrus and honeysuckle nuances. Pair it with grilled, fresh seafood and lighter fare. Once the weather heats up, this is a great and affordable go-to wine that’s both refreshing and food friendly. Also from Greece, consider the lovely Moschofilero. Similar to a dry Muscat, it’s delicious with stronger, richer seafood flavors. Think oysters, lobster.

Hungary: Kekfrankos (also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and other countries in Europe; Lemberger in the U.S.): Often used in blends with Merlot, this light- to medium-bodied red has a lush fragrance, balanced flavors of anise, black pepper and blueberry and pronounced acid. Hungary’s best Kekfrankos comes from come from the southern Hungarian areas of Villány and Szekszárd. A lively wine that’s great with cheese, game and pork.

South Africa: Steen (also known as Chenin Blanc in France). South Africa’s Steen, made from a clone of Chenin Blanc, is a rich, elegant white known for its sophisticated food pairing ability. Styles vary: young and aged, unoaked and oaked, and dessert South African Chenin yields very dry to sweet results, but overall, the wine offers refined floral aromas, tropical fruit and citrus flavors and a crisp acidity. It’s known for its balance and delicate power. Pair with chicken, fish and spicy Asian cuisine.

This is just a taste of the countless alluring wines available on the market that are unknown (or seemingly unknown) to many. Embrace the unknown and you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

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5 Responses to “Learning the Language of Exotic Wines”

  1. If you put in a pronouncer with the wine, you’ll be ahead of the game and certainly ahead of servers and me. Nobody likes to say something wrong so we just don’t say it.

    But, you are right. There are so many great value wines out there. If we could only pronounce them.

    I had to create pronouncers for some beers I wrote about for a server learning course. I called producers in Poland, in fact. Even after we had a funny conversation about what I wanted, I was still a bit wobbly. That was after I asked them to pronounce the name about six times! (And on beer sites, the same beer had so many different pronunciations!)

    And how do I say your surname? Cos-trAh-va? (twilling the trAh?). Should you include voice pronouncers?

  2. Yes, my name is pronounced Cos-trAh-va–exactly!

    The others:

    Assyrtico: Ah-seer-tea-ko
    Kekfrankos: cake-fron-ko-s (hope I got that right)
    Steen: as it appears

  3. 3 Gary Stuckey said:

    Thanks for the article. I’ve a wine-buying trip to the regional wine superstore scheduled this week and I plan to take a print-out along to guide me. I believe we need to purchase these regional wines before the growers throw in the towel and we’re left with only the common, “safe” varieites.

  4. 4 Virginie Boone said:

    I so know what you mean, and agree that names and endless lists of chateaux, clos etc etc can intimidate easily – even my French mother. Best thing California (and most US producers) ever did might be to have made it clear in many cases what varietals are contained within. And then of course the name Mondavi always had such a nice ring.

  5. 5 Minto Sylvestre said:

    Thank you, Susan Kossserrr, for your brief and to the point “Exotic Sips”. I intend to try each one as soon as I can find them. I would love to see you add Romania to the above list of Greece, Hungary & S Africa.

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