Wine Enthusiast Magazine
SubscribeWeird Tasting Rooms: How Much Is Too Much?
by Susan Kostrzewa
In our September issue, we’re running a piece on unusual California tasting rooms. This includes everything from the Persian palace setting of Darioush in Napa to the drag tomfoolery of Paso Robles’ Clautiere Vineyard, where donning wigs and silly hats is intended to break down barriers and allow for easy socializing. Whether it’s incredible, cutting-edge architecture or fun themes, many wineries offer personality and, in some cases, a little kitsch. But is this what you want?
Shouldn’t the wine speak for itself without possibly being eclipsed by a gimmicky tasting room?
I’m torn on this topic. On one hand, I like for a winery to distinguish itself and express the personality of the people behind it. I like the pseudo-gallery feel of Imagery Estates in Glen Ellen, the wacky retreat feel of Pat Kuleto’s hilltop Napa tasting room, and the roaming goat goofiness of Fairview in South Africa. I wouldn’t say they distracted me from focusing on the wines made there—they all produce solid wines that stand on their own merit. What the tasting rooms succeeded in doing was telling story beyond the glass—giving me a feel for the people and personalities behind the brand. Whimsy, humor, rebellion, creativity…you hope the wine can also reflect the philosophy of the minds that make and market it, but the mood and energy of a tasting room can be a great way to engage with the soul of a winery.
On the other hand, there’s a limit. I’m not sure I want visual or audio distractions crammed down my throat while I’m trying to experience a wine. Wine tasting is an exercise of the senses. I might not be able to appreciate the wine’s color if hanging over the bar are colored lights. I’m not sure how well I can appreciate the elegance of a wine while Death Metal is blaring in the background. And it goes without saying that a tasting room’s “personality” should not include aggressive smell (though I know some that I’ve visited, especially ones with shops attached, could not avoid it because of products sold there—think sachets of lavender, vanilla-scented candles).
What’s your take? Do you like a minimalist tasting room with minimal distraction, or do you say bring the extra stimulation on?
Filed under: Opinions and Commentary, Travel, Vineyards, Wine Tasting
5 Comments
5 Responses to “Weird Tasting Rooms: How Much Is Too Much?”
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August 7th, 2009 at 10:31:47 AM
Personally, I like the tasting rooms to represent the winemakers’ personalities. If I go into a tasting room with clowns pouring the wines, so be it. If those wines are good, I’ll buy them. I like to see wineries put a little personality into their $20 tastings. I’ll remember those offbeat places and will then be more likely to return.
August 7th, 2009 at 12:01:13 PM
I appreciate friendly and knowledgable tasting room staff. Which is something you don’t find all that often. I would probably be put off by too much kitsch (something I haven’t experienced), but I do like to shop for things other than wine. Like olive oil made at the winery etc.
August 14th, 2009 at 2:45:46 PM
I agree with Bob – Capture the personality of the proprietors, vintners and the wines (fighting the inertia of tradition for tradition’s sake)…and I’m all over it. As for clowns. as long as their red clown noses don’t fall off in my glass of red, or their dry wines don’t taste like cotton candy, I’m good to go.
August 14th, 2009 at 2:48:51 PM
I am thinking of Bonny Doon and the fun they have with their wines………it really works in their case from a branding perspective.
August 26th, 2009 at 1:19:05 PM
As Dave Batt said above, As long as the theme represents the owners/winemakers I don’t care how wacky and wild the tasting room is. That and the wine is quality stuff. For instance, Clautiere vineyards in Paso Robles has a very colorful and liberated tasting room as mentioned in the Sept issue but the wines rock!!!! Why not drink amazing wine while in a relaxed, fun atmosphere.