“Dear Colleague, your wine is wild and savage but brilliant…”
-Philippe de Rothschild to Mario Incisa della Rocchetta about his wine, Sassicaia

This past Wednesday, I had the pleasure of dining with Tenuta San Guido Technical Director and winemaker Dr. Sebastiano Rosa along with his wife Elena and several other industry professionals and journalists. For those in the business of wine, no matter what area of it, dining with one of the most respected oenologists working in Italy today is like a Rolling Stone writer hanging out with Jimmy Page or Mick Jagger. To be drinking one of the most iconic Tuscan wines of all time with the winemaker, geeking out about the different vintages and nuances found within each bottling, is just the ultimate thrill for any truly passionate wino.

The focus of the dinner was the estate’s shining star, Sassicaia, in addition to the sampling of Tenuta San Guido’s newer additions, Le Difese and Guidalberto. Le Difese and Guidalberto, both more accessibly priced than their older brother, offer an excellent and more immediately consumable alternative for those seeking to touch upon the fame and reputation of the winery. For the sake of space, however, I am going to devote the rest of this blog to the tasting of the Sassicaias.

First, a little background on the wine. Sassicaia is a Tuscan wine produced in the region of Maremma, though the wine actually carries its own D.O.C. of Bolgheri Sassicaia. It is a red blend of 85-90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10-15% Cabernet Franc (percentages vary depending on vintage). Yields are low (30-32 hectoliters/hectare) to encourage concentration, depth and complexity, and all the fruit is handpicked and destemmed. Ageing takes place in 30% new Allier and Tronçais French oak barrels for 22 – 24 months. The wine is big, bold and masterfully created with cellar ageing almost a requirement for true enjoyment and development of all its intricacies and true potential.

And now, my impressions of the vintages tasted:

2006 – A baby by all standards, showing all the promise and depth of some of the greatest vintages of Sassicaia ever produced. Immensely rich and concentrated with loads of wild black berries, dark plum and herb-focused forest notes on the nose, followed by more developed fruit flavors on the palate with hints of licorice. Full bodied with structured tannins, strong minerality, good acidity and a ridiculously long finish. Sure to be a gem in 20+ years.

2003 – Given the hot vintage, this is a rather ripe smelling Sassicaia with mashed dark fruit and berries prominent on the nose but suggestions of age developing (a bit like brandied blackberries). Moderate weight with medium acidity and flavors of soft black plum, cigar box and leather. Round and lush, this still needs a little bit of time to balance out, though I wonder if the acidity will be enough to do the trick.

2000 – Though it was a less than stellar vintage in general, the 2000 was actually showing superbly that evening and was the surprise of the night. The nose was complex and developed, loaded with dark fruit but supported by accents of tobacco, tanned animal hide, cedar and a kiss of fresh mint. The mouth is like pure silk with smooth tannins, lively acidity and vibrant fruit followed by a long, evolving finish. While it was superb now, it could use some more time in the cellar; try again in a couple of years and gauge from there.

1999 – One of the more herbal samplings of the evening, the ’99 boasted a lot of spice, pepper and plum skins on the nose. The palate was beautifully textured, like velvet, and was quite intense all the way through the finish with lingering flavors of earth and black raspberries. Again, though this isn’t a widely touted vintage, the wine showed nicely and exhibited promise with a couple more years of age.

1996 – A lively and vibrant nose with red plum notes accented by leather, light cedar and herbs. The mouth is round and medium-full with more solid fruit and soft spice on the finish. Moderate acidity, soft tannins and an approachable texture with a lingering but clean finish. Totally drinkable now, though I would recommend holding for another year or so and seeing what your preference is from there.

1989 – Everyone thought this wine was ready to drink now, though I felt that I would have appreciated it a bit more last year. It was definitely the most approachable and, as most would prefer to say, elegant wines of the evening; I felt it was missing a certain touch of oomph, spirit, boldness that is so classically characteristic of the wine, even when properly aged. Lush and soft with cassis, pepper and wild tobacco. So round and creamily textured, it was hard not to enjoy. Drink up NOW.

1985 – For me, the clear star of the evening. Yes, the 2006 was beautiful and showed great promise, but there is very little better than enjoying a fine wine when it is aged just how you personally like it. Sure, some might find it still a bit too young, but I like the clear exhibition of character it still possessed, like a badge of pride for the winery, the grapes and the terroir. Gorgeously concentrated with intense black fruit, licorice, tanned leather, tar, soft earthy cedar, and exotic foresty notes. The mouth is full and powerful with solid acidity and dusty tannins leading in to an extremely long finish. Like I said, some might say hold, but if you have some lying around (as if we could all be so lucky) I’d certainly suggest trying a bottle of it now.

Have you had the pleasure of sampling any Sassicaia? What were your impressions on the wine? How it was drinking? How long you would age? Where were you and who were you with? What special occasion prompted you to splurge on the legendary vino?

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