Wine Enthusiast Magazine
SubscribeGive It Up For the Early Women of Wine
by Susan Kostrzewa
So many intriguing, influential characters over the centuries have populated the wine world that it would be impossible to tell their stories in one fell swoop. But one segment that is often overlooked in the history of wine is the women of centuries past and their contributions to the category. These trailblazers defied the odds and built powerful brands despite the obstacles and male-dominated times in which they lived. There’s no two ways about it, these sisters made a mark in a male-dominated business and did it with finesse and vision.
When I first started learning about wine while living in Sonoma, I was surprised at how often the stories of plucky and innovative daughters, wives and sisters popped up in relation to the founding and early days of iconic California wineries. Simi’s story was especially powerful: Founded in 1876 by two Italian brothers, Giuseppe and Pietro Simi, the winery was taken over by Giuseppe Simi’s daughter, Isabelle, in 1904, and she continued to helm the brand throughout Prohibition, ensuring its survival. The pioneering continued in 1973, when Maryann Graf, the first woman to graduate from an American university with a degree in oenology, joined the winery. And Zelma Long, one of California’s most important winemakers, added to Simi girl power in 1979. All of these women, especially Isabel were anomalies in their own time.
Across the pond a century before in 1805, 27-year-old Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin Clicquot gained control of late husband François Clicquot’s banking, wool trading, and Champagne production in a time when female business owners were essentially non-existent. Using funds from her father-in-law, “Veuve (widow) Clicquot” focused the company completely on Champagne production, developed an early Champagne technique called riddling and impacting the future of all Champagne styles and production. She also helped catapult the brand to success and it’s still one of the most important names in the wine world to date.
These are just a few of the stories that solidify women’s roles in the wine world—they were integral in paving the way for a new era in which women are prominent at all levels of wine business. Female sommeliers, wine directors, winemakers, buyers, owners—even wine editors like me—owe it to these great ladies for their bravery, skill and strength. Today, the trend continues, with stars like Helen Turley, Jancis Robinson, Karen McNeil and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild carrying the noble torch.
The next time you pop the cork on a great sip, don’t forget the women behind the wine. And let me know who I’ve missed!
Filed under: Opinions and Commentary, Wine Legends, Winemaking
7 Comments
7 Responses to “Give It Up For the Early Women of Wine”
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February 3rd, 2010 at 3:56:21 PM
The stories of the champagne widows are facinating, particularly because they would not have legally been able to control their own finances and run a business had their husbands been alive. Given how pioneering they were it is surprising they are not more recognized in history.
February 4th, 2010 at 12:12:02 PM
Wine industry women, both of yesteryear and today, definitely seem to possess an admirable sense of determination. Case in point: MacNeil, who battled polio and extreme poverty as a teen though still managed to graduate valedictorian of her high school class (she apparently held several odd jobs throughout that period).
I also feel as if I have met a good number of females who once held high-profile positions outside of wine in fields like law and finance. MW Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan (whom I haven’t met), for instance, is a former investment banker who got turned onto wine after a particularly impressive business lunch. I guess it takes a certain caliber of individual to succeed in this industry.
February 4th, 2010 at 1:23:25 PM
Two women I greatly admire are Carol Duval-Leroy (Champage Duval-Leroy) and Kimberly Pfendler (Pfendler Vineyards). With little preparation or experience, they each assumed control of the family wineries (in Champagne and Sonoma Mountain, respectively) after the deaths of their husbands. There were other, more secure options for them, no doubt, but in order to save the jobs of people who depended on them and to carry on an important legacy, they took control. And the wines, in both cases, are exquisite.
February 5th, 2010 at 12:27:33 PM
The forgotten female icon of the California wine history is Teresa Franzia, Fred’s grandmother. She and her sons built the Franzia winery in Ripon just after prohibition ended with money she borrowed from AP Gianini while her husband was away in Italy. Later she loaned her son in law Ernest Gallo the remainder of the money she borrowed so he could build his winery. Teresa begat Gallo, The Wine Group and Bronco (about half of the US wine business) a monumental but forgotten historic impact on California’s wine industry. Not bad for a, hard working, 4’11″, accidental mail order bride from Italy.
February 5th, 2010 at 4:31:54 PM
I would put in a vote for Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW. Her International Wine Center has raised standards of professionalism in the wine industry by putting thousands of members of the wine trade through the rigorous courses of the Wine & Spirits Education Trust. In addition, her best-selling Wine for Dummies books have brought a greater appreciation of wine to so many people who might have been intimidated by the subject. I also think the indefatigable Louisa Hargrave, the founding mother of the Long Island wine industry deserves a strong mention. Finally, Serena Sutcliffe MW of Sotheby’s; don’t you just love it that the wine department of perhaps the world’s most prestigious auction house is run by a woman?
February 5th, 2010 at 8:02:34 PM
Well done piece on the contributions of women in wine. When you really think about it without women, the wine business might be a tiny unimportant business. The data is correct that in the US women purchase nearly 70% of the production. They have been the target audience for decades. You mention the handful of female icons past and present and there are dozens if not hundreds more…the wine sisterhood is enormous…
February 10th, 2010 at 1:48:07 PM
Another woman I admire who is the pioneer in recent times is Maria Luz Marin of Casa Marin in Chile. She created a new region in Chile where no one believed she should go and is producing widely acclaimed wines.