Wine Enthusiast Magazine
SubscribeI’ll Take the Bartender’s Choice, Hold the Egg Whites?
by Erika Strum
Many beloved cocktails have earned their place in our hearts with thanks due to the incredible, edible egg. Classic drinks like the Ramos Gin Fizz get their special frothy texture and creamy meringue flavor from egg whites. So I was floored when I read in the New York Times, that the New York City Department of Health had been cracking down on the use of egg whites in drinks at popular cocktail establishments. While raw egg whites may make some precious sippers squeamish, the drinks simply wouldn’t be the same without them.
The issue occurred at Pegu Club, which serves a drink called the “Earl Grey MarTEAni” made with earl grey-infused gin, lemon juice, simple syrup and raw egg white. The ingredients are clearly listed on the menu, with a warning. Nevertheless, the Department of Health issued Pegu a violation requiring a court appearance, because the bartender failed to explicitly inform the customer about the raw egg whites. Pegu immediately stopped serving a drink they’d served for years, though nobody had ever gotten sick. Other bartenders chimed in with the same reports of serving egg-white- laden drinks for years, with nary a sick patron.
I’d prefer to have laws of full disclosure than to have these beloved concoctions banned entirely. But are they necessary? How would you feel if you consumed raw egg without your knowledge? The stats say that only 1 in every 20,000 eggs is contaminated with salmonella and some argue that the alcohol in the drink knocks it out before it could cause harm. And it’s not just drinks that use raw egg whites, plenty of sauces do too. What’s next, a hollandaise hysteria?
The issue at Pegu Club made me think about some of the proposed new laws regarding wine labels. New labeling laws may require wineries to disclose the products used in fining be they egg whites, bentonite, animal gelatin or anything else. This is already the case in Australia, where all allergens are listed on the label.
On the one hand, transparency is a good thing. People with dietary restrictions appreciate having the knowledge to make an informed buying decision. On the other hand, I sympathize with the winemaker who resists sharing too much. Wine is confusing enough to consumers, do we want to scare them away? Plus, changing the labels is expensive.
I’m not sure what the answer is, but I imagine the issue is here to stay. Where do you side? The more info, the better? Or is ignorance bliss?
Filed under: Health & Diet, Industry Issues, Spirits
4 Comments
4 Responses to “I’ll Take the Bartender’s Choice, Hold the Egg Whites?”
Please Wait
February 25th, 2010 at 2:06:56 PM
While ignorance may not necessarily be bliss, I do think all these labeling requirements are becoming overdone. But regulators have to justify their existence, their livelihood depends on it. Next thing will be signs in playgrounds: “Allowing your child to play in the dirt maybe detrimental to their health” Or stickers on cars with the warning on the windshield: ” Driving this car may have serious consequences” Leave us alone, its my life and I will drink what I want.
February 25th, 2010 at 3:05:49 PM
It really seems like government regulatory agencies are just working to over-wuss-ify this country. We’ve gone from creatures with a “fight or flight” response to beings with a “whine or sue” mechanism, being prodded along by big brother. You can’t make a drink without egg whites? There goes good and frothy sour mix too. Are they going to censor the scenes in Rocky Movies where he put’s down a post-workout egg-fest? Everything we aren’t supposed to eat now is what our parents and grandparents grew up enjoying, and the rub is, new generations have shorter life expectations.
I can understand full disclosure for people with allergies or people with specific dietary guidelines like hardcore vegans. Be up front, but don’t take away the good stuff. I’m drawing the line if they prohibit Belgian beer due to isinglass issues with fish allergies but for the time being, I’ll be enjoying my butter, mayonnaiese, duck fat, eggs-over-easy, and whiskey sours.
March 9th, 2010 at 12:22:17 PM
Good to hear the DoH is cracking down, I hope in the near future we will see labels on Beef and Chicken that contain steroids or contain GMO soybeans, I wouldn’t hold my breath though. That would require Politicians looking out for the “public health” and NOT there own self interests. Imagine that a DoH that looks out for the taxpaying citizens and NOT the BIG companies that line their pockets.
March 12th, 2010 at 11:11:47 AM
Thanks for the great responses, everyone. Joao Faustino, I like the quote from you ‘be up front, but don’t take away the good stuff’. That pretty much sums it up!