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Man o' War's vineyards on Waiheke Island
Something like 90% of the New Zealand wine imported to the U.S. is Sauvignon Blanc, which makes it easy for American wine drinkers to completely disregard the other 10%. Sure, some folks go on about Pinot Noir–the latest flavor du jour in the U.S. and New Zealand’s most prominent red wine grape–but what’s remarkable is the diversity of grape varieties now being grown in this remote corner of the world.
Despite some draconian quarantine laws on foreign plant material, innovative growers continue to introduce new varieties and resuscitate old ones. Syrah has actually been present in New Zealand for more than 150 years, but only in the past two decades has it come of age. Alan Limmer at Stonecroft deserves much of the credit for preserving the original genetic material, and continues to make a wonderfully perfumed style of Syrah (alas, not imported to the U.S.).
Because of its relatively warm climate, Hawkes Bay has become the epicenter of New Zealand’s Syrah resurgence, with solid examples being turned out by Babich, Bilancia, C.J. Pask, Craggy Range, Esk Valley, Matariki, Mills Reef, Te Awa, Te Mata, Trinity Hill, Vidal and Villa Maria. I’m sure there are more, but I’ve restricted this list to wines I’ve actually tasted.
The wines typically marry peppery spice with bright New World fruit in a unique expression of Syrah that’s worth seeking out. With only a few exceptions (Bilancia’s La Collina, Craggy Range’s Le Sol, Trinity Hill’s Homage), these are medium-bodied reds with modest tannins and great drinkability, capable of pairing with most red-meat dishes.
Although Hawke’s Bay is ground zero for New Zealand’s Syrah explosion, the interest has carried over into other parts of the country as well. Gisborne’s Millton makes a dark, almost jammy Syrah from its vineyards, while at the other end of the country intrepid wineries in Central Otago have ventured to plant it in some of the region’s warmest locales.
In between, Martinborough producers like Dry River, Kusuda and Schubert are producing dense, savory styles of Syrah, while Man o’ War‘s Dreadnought Syrah from Waiheke Island is a potential classic in the making. The 2008 was a revelation at this year’s New Zealand Syrah Symposium, showcasing peppered meat, brambly fruit and plenty of richness without excessive weight.
Whether you enjoy Syrah from other parts of the world and are looking for a different take on this versatile variety, or have yet to find a Syrah you can truly warm up to, I think that if you try one from New Zealand, you’ll be hooked. If you’ve had any others you’d like to recommend, post them below and I’ll see if I can track them down here in the U.S.
Filed under: New Zealand, Varietals
7 Comments
March 2nd, 2010 at 12:04:47 PM
Joe – great to read something besides what is happening with the New Zealand grape supply. You are right there is so much more to New Zealand wine than Sauvignon blanc. Challenge is often finding these wine outside of New Zealand, which makes them even more special.
March 2nd, 2010 at 12:13:33 PM
Great article about the exciting developments in New Zealand Syrah.
The Man O’War Vineyards Dreadnought 2008 is indeed a stunner. I started importing these wonderful wines into the UK market back in September and they have been really well received. If anyone wants any further information regarding availability in the UK check out my site http://www.stokesfinewines.com
March 2nd, 2010 at 11:33:05 PM
Story update: According to a NZ Web site, Allan Limmer has just sold his Stonecroft Winery: http://www.stuff.co.nz/dominion-post/business/3396628/Syrah-pioneer-sells-up-to-concentrate-on-motor-racing
Not only does Limmer deserve a lot of credit for resuscitating Syrah in New Zealand, his Gewürztraminer is a terrific wine. I hope that the new owners will continue to pursue the high quality standards that Limmer set.
March 3rd, 2010 at 12:48:29 PM
Joe,
Your article brought a smile to my face. I spent 3 years in NZ working for Montana Wines and have known the “secret” since then… the ability of NZ to make exceptional cool climate Syrah. And to have a photo of Waiheke Island in your article brings back memories of a truly special place.
March 3rd, 2010 at 1:26:01 PM
Interesting that a Waiheke syrah was Joe’s favorite at the Syrah Symposium in Hawkes Bay this year. At the first one three years ago, my favorite was a Waiheke syrah from Passage Rock. Think they might need to move the symposium in 2013!!
March 3rd, 2010 at 5:07:38 PM
Joe, I’m pleased that you have made the observations on NZ Syrah. We have grown it in Martinborough for 24 years. Just a small planting in 1986 of 3 acres. But the wines did exceptionally well in competitions and sold out very rapidly, so we sold the original 3 acre block to Kusada, and planted 10 acres of Syrah at our Blue Rock site. The wines have been a revalation; while I’m in Martinborough because of Pinot Noir, Syrah is certainly challenging my loyalties. For anyone interested our USA importer is Northwest Wines in San Fransisco. And, for those interested in a bit of history, I believe our original vintage in 1996 was the first 100% Syrah bottling in Martinborough. We are Murdoch James Estate (www.murdochjames.co.nz) Regards, Roger
March 4th, 2010 at 3:03:21 AM
Credit for syrah in NZ must go to Dr Alan Limmer who not only started the variety but also saved the Gimblett Gravels from quarrying and becoming hole in the ground. He has sold recently to race hot cars.
http://www.gimblettgravels.com/