Go Franc Yourself

 
Friday, March 26th, 2010 at 12:21:30 PM
by Lauren Buzzeo

Vineyard of Cab Franc

I’ve always had a soft spot for Cabernet Franc. To me, it’s one of the more seductively refined yet pronounced grapes used to make great wine. It speaks of its terroir like few others, painting a landscape of its origins through varying characteristics and intensity. It is a significant component to some of the world’s greatest and most sought-after wines, particulary Bordeaux blends, like Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone. It can also be used to produce a single-varietal wine, of which there are stunning examples made throughout the world including California, Washington, New York, Italy and Canada, among others. Given its prominence and permeation, why does the grape get such little respect?

It’s time for us all to Franc-ify ourselves. But where to begin?

Perhaps some of Cabernet Franc’s greatest expressions come from the Loire Valley in France. Producers here have been working with the grape since the 11th century, mainly in the Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Saumur, Saumur Champigny, Anjou and Anjou-Villages appellations. The wines are generally quite aromatic with notes of red berry and cherry as well as varying degrees of charming herbal, floral, pepper, tobacco and cigar-spice notes. They are typically more rustic in character, providing a great alternative to some of the overblown fruit bombs that saturate the market today.

Loire Cab Franc

The other great thing about Loire Cab Francs? Their value! Sure, we would all love to have a cellar loaded with Cheval Blanc and the like, but few of us have the means to do so while still eating three meals a day. The Loire offers a fantastic value for those looking to taste some predominantly or solely Cab Franc wines; we’re talking $20-$50 for what are in some cases 90+ point wines. Sure, quality varies by producer and vintage, as it does in any wine producing region the world over, but if you do a little research and stick to some respected producers (like Charles Joguet, Bernard Baudry, Olga Raffault and Yannick Amirault to name a few) you’ll avoid the thin and weedy unripe or poorly made wines too many people associate with the region or variety as a whole.

Of course, as I mentioned above, Cab Franc is not limited to being produced in the Loire. Excellent examples can be found virtually everywhere at varying price points, and they all have an individual identity of their own to offer. You can always check out our online Buying Guide for a little recon before you head out to your local winery or retailer and see what they have.

Trust me, you’ll wonder why it took you so long to give Franc a chance. And hopefully, like me, you’ll be happy you finally did.

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4 Responses to “Go Franc Yourself”

  1. [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by MelissaDobson, Jessica Engel and Loire Valley Wine, Travis Kim. Travis Kim said: RT @WineEnthusiast: Unreserved: Go Franc Yourself by Lauren Buzzeo: http://bit.ly/aWarct Folks, give CF love today and bring home a btl [...]

  2. I do think we’ve started to see more Cab Franc being bottled by itself, which is interesting because to my palate I consider it a softer wine, much like Merlot. I think it can certainly make wine worthy of being more then 2-5% of a quality blend….it’s not like we’re talking about Petite Verdot here!

  3. Great read on Cab Franc and I couldn’t agree more with your statement “Cab Franc is not limited to being produced in the Loire. Excellent examples can be found virtually everywhere at varying price points”. Being a Cab Franc producer I am of course of the opinion that there are many places to look for wonderful expressions of this versatile variety. Cool climate examples such as what we produce in northern Michigan are filled with beautiful ripe raspberry fruit and the signature (in my mind) violet floral component that I love in this grape. Thanks for spotlighting this grape that I feel deserves more attention based on its flexibility in producing tasty wines in various regions.

    Adam Satchwell
    Shady Lane Cellars
    Suttons Bay, Michigan

  4. If you are going to talk Cab Franc, you can’t leave out the up and coming wine region that is really excelling with this grape: Michigan… yes, I said Michigan.

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