I recently had a serious flirtation with Argentinian Torrontés. The first few of these whites I tried (from Colomé, Lurton and Tomero) were rich on the palate, like Viognier, but cut with precise acidity; they exhibited floral and fresh citrus flavors—sometimes lemony, sometimes orangey or melony—and a nutty undertone. I enjoyed (though did not necessarily admire) every bottling I tried. Michael Schachner, who reviews the wines of Spain and South America for WE, warned me that I was heading for a fall, but I didn’t listen. And yes, Torrontés broke my heart. In subsequent bottlings I began to detect (had they been there all along?!) a beany, vegetal quality that compromised the fruit pleasure, or a lack of acidity that prevented the fruit from asserting itself. I was reminded of my infatuation with Chenin Blanc, with which I was besotted until, after much familiarity, the lesser examples outweighed the delightful discoveries.

Now that the pain from the breakup has subsided, I recognize that there are Torrontés’ worth recommending; of course there are.

Okay, I’ve taken the analogy past the breaking point, but it holds: when you first meet someone and romantic sparks are struck, flaws are forgiven, even welcomed in that giddy rush. (Not very bright but I find that simplicity so charming! Can be kind of nasty but there’s such strength in that.) Looking back, you saw the flaws, but they were overlooked, even embraced.

My latest infatuation is Pinot Gris from the Pacific Northwest. What sparked the love are offerings by King Estate, which I’ve encountered on several wine lists and have enjoyed so thoroughly that I refuse to believe this love will not last forever. These are generally crisp, lean, refreshing. The best (richest, most complex) examples of Pinot Gris come from Alsace, but for the sake of this early-summer, easy-drinking, easy-on-the-budget, extended-metaphor essay, we’ll concentrate on Washington and Oregon.

Here are some top-rated, current-release Torrontés and Pinot Gris for summer enjoyment and discovery; the ratings are by Michael Schachner and Paul Gregutt. These are all cheap dates. I can only hope White Burgundy doesn’t find out my cheating ways.

91 ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 Croft Vineyard Pinot Gris; $18
91 Adelsheim 2008 Pinot Gris; $19
90 Alexandria Nicole 2009 Pinot Gris; $16
90 Hyatt Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris; $9
89 Chatter Creek 2008 Pinot Gris; $14

88 Terrazas de los Andes 2008 Unoaked Reserva Torrontés; $17
88 Incayal 2009 Torrontés; $13
88 Tamari 2009 Reserve Torrontés; $15
87 Zolo 2009 Torrontés; $11
87 Finca Agostino 2009 ILKA Torrontés; $10

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