Archive for October, 2010

The theme of women in wine is one we take seriously at Wine Enthusiast, and not just because we’re staffed with an equal number of men and women on the magazine. In addition to numerous pieces highlighting important women in wine over the last several years, we recently ran an article on the boom of influential women winemakers in Chile, and I joined a panel of notable women for a Wine Portfolio segment on women in wine this summer (full episode to air on CNBC Nov. 4 at 9:30). But beyond the obvious positive, progressive aspect of supporting new faces in our industry (change is essential, and reflects the wine drinking public), is it still very unique to be a woman of any influence in the industry? Is this a topic that’s dated and done?

If you were only to reference numbers, then yes, you’d say times had really changed. Most people have heard that the Davis enology program is now 50/50 with men and women, and we know that something like eight out of every 10 bottles purchased for the home are bought by women—which is power indeed. Look at most large wine companies in America and you’ll see several women in places of influence. True of most wine and food magazines too. Women are operating at high levels in the industry, and are working with great men who support the balance.

Which is why it shocks me how many stories of gender traditionalism I still hear from women in all walks of the wine industry. It’s no Mad Men-style nonsense of behind-slapping or egregious leering, but it is rife with that slippery area of muttered put-downs and clubby exclusion. Based on these stories, it seems there are still a good number of men who, though maybe not as blatantly as in the past, would prefer to keep women out of the old boy’s clique that once typified the business. Is it generational? Or is it a sign that at the hidden but essential levels, the wine world, regardless of age, is still often stuck in the past?

I personally see the wine world as potentially one of the most inclusive, forward-thinking and open industries that exists, and am optimistic that the countless inventive thinkers and influencers I meet in the world of wine will soon clear out any vestige of an outdated past. And let me be fair here—many of these innovators come from the older generations and are all too happy to see change, so it really does not seem to be just about the year in which he or she (because women can contribute to it too) was born.

Is this a non issue these days or are we still stuck in the past? What have you experienced, either as an industry person or a consumer? How can the wine world become more progressive, not only about gender, but about the changing overall face of the wine drinker of the future?

Halloween is one of those strange holidays that people either do really well or not at all. To me, there’s no going halfway here because if you try to cut corners and just come up with a costume in five minutes (i.e. sheet ghost) you inevitably just end up feeling stupid for even bothering while marveling at other people’s elaborate costumes as they look at you and think “what a weak, lazy costume.” Awful.

Nope, for me and my loved ones, Halloween is all about fun and getting into the spirit of things, because while it might be a pain in the you-know-what to get your act together, the payoff in laughing and smiling with kids, family and friends makes it all worthwhile in the end.

First off, I make (as in sew) a fair portion of my costume every year. I don’t really believe in spending more than $50 on a costume, and by making a good part of it on your own you bring down that total expenditure to even less while keeping the integrity of the design in tact. The best way to do this? Set a date with a group of friends who also need to get crafty either for themselves or their kids, break out the sewing machines and a couple bottles of wine. For some reason, I find that a crisp, refreshing white like an Albariño from Rías Baixas or Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa really helps to get those creative juices flowing, and doing it with friends is just all the more fun.

Then, there’s the actual Halloween festivities. Of course if you have kids and must go trick or treating with them, there’s no reason you shouldn’t have a good time too. Dress up! Try something silly and adventurous. You’ll be an awesome parent for being fun and a great spouse for letting loose and maybe putting something on outside your comfort zone of the traditional post-7pm tee and sweats. The kids will get candy, and you can treat yourself to some hot buttered rum or a black martini after the sugar rush subsides and they finally fall asleep.

But the best way to celebrate is undoubtedly to have a Halloween party. You get to laugh (or cackle) with friends and family and take some awesome pictures, as well as make some crazy fun drinks. Here are some of my favorites:

Halloween Harvest Punch – Because you should ALWAYS have a giant bowl of booze.
Combine 1 part melon liqueur, 1 part dark rum, 1 part light rum, 2 parts white cranberry juice, 1 part unfiltered apple juice, 1 part simple syrup and juice of one lemon in punch bowl. Garnish with apple slices, blueberries and melon balls.

Dracula’s Kiss – delicious and deadly
Rim glass in thick red-colored simple syrup (not necessary, but definitely has a cool effect). Coat the bottom of the martini glass with ½ ounce grenadine. Add ice and 1 ounce black cherry vodka. Fill glass with cola and garnish with maraschino cherries.

Ghostbuster – I ain’t scared of no ghosts
Pour 1 ounce peach schnapps and 1 ounce melon liqueur into shaker with ice. Shake and strain into glass. Add 3-5 drops of Irish cream liqueur drop by drop into the center of the glass. Watch the ghost dance.

Walking Dead – For the zombies that need to pull an all-nighter
Half fill highball glass with Newcastle. Add 1 shot of chilled brewed espresso, 1 ½ ounces (a shot) of Jack Daniel’s and fill with red bull. Stir, drink and get ready to stay awake. (Note – The Newcastle DraughtKeg is especially useful for these, with less bottle waste and no flat half bottles lingering around. Also people can just have a regular beer if they don’t really want to stay up all night.)

In addition to cocktails, be sure to check out winemag.com’s article on hosting a Halloween party with tons of recipes and tips.

So, how will you wake the dead this year? Are you ready to take Halloween to another level? What are your favorite spooktacular drinks?

The wild Douro landscape

Last week, I had the pleasure of tasting through a vertical of Chryseia, an expensive Douro wine with an international pedigree. It’s a Portuguese wine produced by a partnership between the English Symington family–owners of Dow’s, W.&J. Graham’s and Warre’s, among other Douro properties–and the French Prats family (Bruno Prats sold Château Cos d’Estournel in 1998).

I liked the wines well enough–especially the 2004 and 2007 vintages–but I have to confess to some reservations about the style, which Rupert Symington described as “trying to make a more elegant style of Douro wines.” He and Prats want the wine to come in under 14% alcohol, which has a definite impact on the wine’s character.

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The spirit that hovers over the absinthe drinker in the posters of the 19th century is portrayed as either a slavering demon or an ethereal green fairy, but in all cases the absinthe drinker is a broken-down, miserable soul. It’s the outlaw image that is partially responsible for absinthe’s resurgence today.

It may not be a demon, but there’s nothing fairy-light or shy about absinthe either: drink it straight and it’s a rugged ride; put it in a cocktail and it dominates. It’s a trickster. A demon in fairy disguise.

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Around the holidays, there’s no better way to make a gathering special than to pour some sparkling wine. Just the appearance of a froth-topped flute is enough to energize a room. This season, don’t play it safe with the same old Champagnes and California sparkling wines, jazz up your parties with some of these offbeat selections.

 1. Blanquette de Limoux

Billed as the world’s oldest sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux comes from an out-of-the-way portion of southwest France. Containing at least 90% Mauzac–the region’s indigenous grape–it lacks the crisp, razor-edge acidity of Champagne, but offers soft, easy-drinking instead. Recommended producers: Saint-Hilaire, Sieur d’Arques, Antech-Limoux and Château Rives-Blanques. $10-20.

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I’m not talking about Beer Pong or Quarters, or any other collegiate drinking games. It’s football season again. Gridiron, for those of you outside North America, who might think I am referencing a sport played with a round ball.

Since I live outside my favorite team’s television coverage area, I have to subscribe to DirecTV’s NFL Sunday Ticket so that I can watch every minute of the Buffalo Bills‘ efforts on Sunday afternoons. And since I coach my son’s travel soccer team, which also plays its games on Sunday afternoons, I also have to record the football games to watch them in the evening–and avoid hearing or reading the outcome in the meantime. The result is that during the season, Sunday evenings in our house turn into their own little ritual, complete with food and drink.

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