The wild Douro landscape

Last week, I had the pleasure of tasting through a vertical of Chryseia, an expensive Douro wine with an international pedigree. It’s a Portuguese wine produced by a partnership between the English Symington family–owners of Dow’s, W.&J. Graham’s and Warre’s, among other Douro properties–and the French Prats family (Bruno Prats sold Château Cos d’Estournel in 1998).

I liked the wines well enough–especially the 2004 and 2007 vintages–but I have to confess to some reservations about the style, which Rupert Symington described as “trying to make a more elegant style of Douro wines.” He and Prats want the wine to come in under 14% alcohol, which has a definite impact on the wine’s character.

To me, the result comes across as something akin to reserve or restraint, which I personally find at odds with the naturally wild character of the region’s steep, rocky hillsides and gnarled old vines. One might be tempted to say it is the indigenous Portuguese varieties and extreme terroir seen through the polished winemaking of Bordeaux and the stereotypical reserve of the English.

Is it possible that those lenses, meant to sharpen and refine the focus, have done their jobs too well, creating a difference analagous to the sound quality variation debated between vinyl and compact disc? The result is a wine that excels technically, but to me lacks some of the hedonistic impact I’ve felt from several other modern Douro wines, such as Pintas, Quinta do Vale Meão, Quinta Vale Dona Maria and some of the Niepoort offerings. I want to feel the wildness and warmth of the Douro in the wine, and yet others will argue that the Chryseia expression–one of refinement and elegance–is superior.

Even Rupert Symington admits that in a blind tasting, he’s not sure people would pick Chryseia as a Douro wine. To me, that suggests an overly heavy emphasis on winemaking at the expense of terroir expression. But there’s reason to believe that is changing. Chryseia’s day-to-day winemaker is now Portuguese, replacing his French predecessor. More importantly, the 2007 and 2008 vintages show more spice and Douro character than previous vintages, while still retaining freshness and structure.

Vertical Tasting Notes

Retailing for around $55-65, Chryseia’s blend varies from year to year, but customarily consists of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Tinta Roriz was included in the 2001, and a small amount of Tinto Cão made it into the 2003. Aging is in 400-liter new French oak casks for 9-12 months.

2001: Fine and silky on the palate, with cigar box and subdued fruit on the nose, followed up by notes of cherry and sandalwood on the palate. Ready to drink. 89 points.

2003: No 2002 Chryseia was released. Full-bodied, slightly warm and rough in texture. Dried cherries, cedar and chocolate; a bit coarse and astringent on finish, but not for keeping. 87 points.

2004: Cedary and restrained fruit on the nose, but more effusive on the palate, with hints of cherry, plum and vanilla. Medium to full bodied, with a long, lush, silky finish. At peak. 93 points.

2005: Lacks the richness and depth of ’04, and shows more plummy–almost pruny–notes, yet the tannins are still fine in texture. At peak. 91 points.

2006: This is the current release in the U.S., charming for its forward cherry fruit and refined baking spices. The oak seems more subtle, hinting at almond skin. Supple and fresh on the finish. Drink now or hold. 91 points.

2007: Thick, chewy and dense, this vintage is more Port-like, yet at the same time dry and fresh. Chocolate, cedar, plum and black cherry flavors flow easily in waves, ending long and lush. Drink now or hold. 93 points.

2008: Hugely primary at this stage, with floral notes, layers of blueberry, pie spice and chocolate backed by firm tannins that should soften nicely within a couple of years. 90 points.

For the official Wine Enthusiast ratings of these wines and the very good Post Scriptum (Chryseia’s more affordable second label), as reviewed on release by European Editor Roger Voss, please visit our online Buying Guide and search on Chryseia.

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