During summer’s hottest months, it’s tempting to stick to whites and rosés. Even the most insipid examples can be chilled to within a few degrees of freezing and provide simple icy refreshment.

But many reds are fated to be left slumbering in the cellar, waiting for cool temperatures to return, and rightfully so. The mere idea of trying to keep a bottle of 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste from getting too warm at a picnic or from having its sediment stirred up while bringing it to the beach is daunting. The thought of a big, beefy, alcoholic red at the end of a long day becomes unappealing when the mercury is over 80°F or so and the humidity is hanging thick in the air.

Still, there’s no need to let the hot, humid weather completely dampen your enthusiasm for red wines. For inveterate–or even just occasional–red-wine drinkers, here are a few suggestions that will allow you to scratch that itch while keeping your cool.

Beaujolais

Most Beaujolais are not very tannic, meaning you can chill them down a little without making them taste hard and unappealing. That same slight chill will serve to accentuate the bright fruit and generally crisp acidity, increasing the wines’ ability to refresh. There’s no need to reach for cru Beaujolais, which are often more concentrated and tannic–look for simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages from the 2009 or 2010 vintages. Big négociants like Joseph Drouhin, Georges Duboeuf and Louis Jadot are reliable and widely distributed; small producers worth trying include Jean-Paul Brun, Michel Tête and Domaine de la Madone.

Sancerre

Although almost all of Sancerre’s production is devoted to white wines, the red wines–made from Pinot Noir–share some of the same breezy, fresh, herbal qualities. The crisp acidities and delicate red-fruit characters partner well with salmon and chicken dishes. Here are a couple of Sancerre Rouge worth seeking out: Domaine Reverdy Ducroux and Domaine Bailly-Reverdy.

Chinon

Many vintners in Chinon bottle two or more cuvées of their Cabernet Franc. Look for those from young vines or sandier sites, which will be lighter in body and less likely to have been aged in new oak. A bonus to these choices? They’re usually the least expensive offerings in a winery’s lineup. For fresh berry fruit with lightly herbal shadings, try the Les Granges bottling from Bernard Baudry or Trinch! by Catherine and Pierre Breton from neighboring Bourgueil.

Barbera

If you prefer Italian inspiration this summer, start with a traditional Barbera from Piedmont. Save the superripe luxury cuvées aged in French oak, which will be low in acid and high in tannin, for cooler months, and focus instead on wines made from earlier-picked grapes and vinified in stainless steel. Barbera made in this way is naturally high in acid and low in tannin, making for a refreshing quaff alongside pasta salads or salumi. Try Giacomo Vico‘s Barbera d’Alba (not the Superiore, which does see oak) or Castelvero‘s Barbera from Piemonte.

Ruché

A Piedmontese rarity, Ruché often features rose-like floral aromas and soft tannins, making it the sort of red that thrives in summer’s heat. Just don’t let the wine itself get too warm, or some of the nuances may be lost. An Internet search will find select U.S. retailers offering Cascina Tavijn, Luca Ferraris and Montalbera. Grignolino is another variety indigenous to Piedmont, also best drunk while young and fresh.  

Lambrusco

Authentic Lambrusco–not the Riunite or Canei of a prior generation–is a frothy purple wine that makes the perfect accompaniment to summer picnics. The bold fruit comes through even when chilled, and the bubbles serve to offset the fat in cold cuts and potato or macaroni salads. Look for dry versions (secco) from these producers: Barbolini, Francesco Vezzelli and Medici Ermete. Like many wines in our social media age, Lambrusco is being promoted through an official day (June 21). 

Frappato

Frappato is another Italian rarity, this time from Sicily, where folks know a thing or two about drinking red wines in hot weather. It’s typically very fresh and floral, with strawberry and raspberry notes that just taste summery. Arianna Occhipinti makes a lovely version; the one from Valle dell’Acate may be easier to find.

American Choices

Noticed an Old World bent to these selections? That’s because so many New World red wines emphasize ripeness and weight, making them less successful as summertime quaffs. Here are two California selections that buck the trend: Edmunds St John‘s Bone-Jolly Gamay from El Dorado and Dashe Cellars‘ Les Enfants Terrible Zinfandel (from Potter Valley in Mendocino). Or try some of the reds coming from such cool-climate states as Michigan or New York.

Although not an exhaustive list, hopefully these suggestions will give red-wine devotees hope as the temperatures climb. Please share your favorites via the comments section.

Alternatively–as I’ll admit to sometimes doing–damn the greenhouse gases, crank up the air conditioning and open a hearty winter-weight red with that brontosaurus-sized rib eye.

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