Archive for the 'Opinions and Commentary' Category

I’ve been contemplating all week what to drink for Valentine’s Day this year. Sure, sure, typically most people go to their favorite retailers in search of a sparkler or some sort, but if that’s not your bag (which, typically, bubbly is not mine) then where to turn? A lush, rich red wine? A decadent, buttery, full-bodied white? A dry, Champagne-esque bière brut á-la-DeuS? Decisions, decisions!

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So many intriguing, influential characters over the centuries have populated the wine world that it would be impossible to tell their stories in one fell swoop. But one segment that is often overlooked in the history of wine is the women of centuries past and their contributions to the category. These trailblazers defied the odds and built powerful brands despite the obstacles and male-dominated times in which they lived. There’s no two ways about it, these sisters made a mark in a male-dominated business and did it with finesse and vision.

When I first started learning about wine while living in Sonoma, I was surprised at how often the stories of plucky and innovative daughters, wives and sisters popped up in relation to the founding and early days of iconic California wineries. Simi’s story was especially powerful: Founded in 1876 by two Italian brothers, Giuseppe and Pietro Simi, the winery was taken over by Giuseppe Simi’s daughter, Isabelle, in 1904, and she continued to helm the brand throughout Prohibition, ensuring its survival. The pioneering continued in 1973, when Maryann Graf, the first woman to graduate from an American university with a degree in oenology, joined the winery. And Zelma Long, one of California’s most important winemakers, added to Simi girl power in 1979. All of these women, especially Isabel were anomalies in their own time.

Across the pond a century before in 1805, 27-year-old Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin Clicquot gained control of late husband François Clicquot’s banking, wool trading, and Champagne production in a time when female business owners were essentially non-existent. Using funds from her father-in-law, “Veuve (widow) Clicquot” focused the company completely on Champagne production, developed an early Champagne technique called riddling and impacting the future of all Champagne styles and production. She also helped catapult the brand to success and it’s still one of the most important names in the wine world to date.

These are just a few of the stories that solidify women’s roles in the wine world—they were integral in paving the way for a new era in which women are prominent at all levels of wine business. Female sommeliers, wine directors, winemakers, buyers, owners—even wine editors like me—owe it to these great ladies for their bravery, skill and strength. Today, the trend continues, with stars like Helen Turley, Jancis Robinson, Karen McNeil and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild carrying the noble torch.

The next time you pop the cork on a great sip, don’t forget the women behind the wine. And let me know who I’ve missed!

Every year, I review Israeli wines for the April issue of our magazine. I do this because the majority of wines from Israel are Kosher, and a lot of Kosher wine is purchased and consumed in the month of April for the Jewish holiday Passover (September is also a busy season for the category with the High Holy Days including Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur). Every year, I have noticed an improvement over the previous vintage, and marvel at the fact that some fabulous winemakers are creating beautiful stuff that too many people are unfamiliar with.

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While New Year’s resolutions frequently involve promises of eating less, giving back more or finally kicking that terrible habit, if you’re not ditching booze altogether it might be the best time to take a look at your beverage routines and question whether they are in need of a shake-up of their own. If you think about your purchasing, education and consumption rituals and realize that you have not bought anything different, learned anything new or shared anything spectacular with friends or family, then you might in fact be stuck in a drink rut. Lucky for you, I’m here to help; adopting these 5 simple and fantastic resolutions is certain to spice up your consumption lifestyle, liberating you from monotony and reminding you about all of the possibilities and pleasures you once yearned to find in the world of fine wine and craft beer. Here’s to a happy, healthy and fun new year!

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If you dine out with any regularity, it’s likely you have an opinion on how restaurant service should be. Whether you feel service is of prime importance or not, we all have our gripes. Recently, I had a particularly poor experience at a 2-Michelin-Star restaurant in NY. Since posting my recap this morning, I’ve been amazed at the number of people corralling to support me. And it makes sense! When you pay top dollar for a meal, people should treat you nicely. Oddly enough, I think too many people take service etiquette for granted. Not wanting to be curmudgeonly they keep opinions to themselves, making these rules unspoken.

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As a wine lover, there are certain region/varietal combinations that I hang my hat on. Dry Creek Valley is good for Zinfandel, Russian River Valley is good for Pinot, Malbec in Argentina, Chardonnay in Burgundy, the list goes on. It serves as a blueprint for making wine selections. But sometimes I can get so bogged down by these preconceptions that I fail to see the larger picture. It has led me to be unfairly judgmental at times, something that I’m not proud of. These are the moments when wine lovers can get that bed reputation. It’s the moment when wine “lover” turns to wine “snob” because these concepts turn from points of guidance to points of judgment. So I love when some of my deep-rooted dogmas are challenged.

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Last year, I wrote a blog called “Without Beer … Would We Be Celebrating Thanksgiving?” While no one knows for certain the validity of the claim that without beer (or the need for it) we might not be celebrating Thanksgiving on the day that we do, the main point of the blog remains a valid one: do as the Pilgrims and celebrate with some brews!

This year, instead of providing you with some more recommendations of my own (regardless of how fabulous they are), I decided to reach out to some of my favorite beer authorities to see what frothy goodness they like to recommend for the big Turkey Day feast.

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They come in several variations, but the overall appearance is generally similar: old white guys in monkey suits, festooned with medallions, oversized neck chains or tastevins. Usually, you’ll hear the loud belly laughs of the alpha males first, then notice the delicate clinks of fine stemware and the slurping sounds of wine being tasted. At some occasions there’ll be a spouse or two wearing the long dark gown that’s the distaff counterpart’s uniform, but not too many. It’s obviously a boys’ club, after all. Catching a glimpse as you enter the restaurant, you might wonder “What’s going on in the private dining room?”

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Wine is one of the few subjects where the story behind the product is as fascinating as the wine itself. Intriguing visionaries, brave business choices, a breakneck pace of dynamic action—the world of wine business is both inspiring and sometimes unbelievable.

Wine itself inspires passion: people love to talk about it, sometimes they travel specifically to learn or experience more, often they immerse themselves in it and often participate in some form as amateurs, whether tasting, making it, or discussing it with friends. But the stories of what goes on beyond the glass can be as integral a part of the enjoyment of wine as what we drink.

Wine Enthusiast Magazine attempts to bridge the gap between pure enthusiasm for wine as a delicious drink and accompaniment to food and the added interest in the wine industry’s news and developments. Sometimes in planning our editorial calendar, the editors and I ask ourselves: are we covering the subject matter well enough by providing our readers with enough direction and information to make informed decisions about what to drink, where to visit and who to see? To what degree are our readers interested in hearing about changes in the wine business world such as acquisitions and mergers or new laws relating to appellations and people in wine?  Is the business of wine as important to our readers as their passion for wine itself? Should we be covering more trade-related subject matter such as Vanity Fair or Sports Illustrated does with their subject matter?

Magazines that are designed to satisfy readers’ wine passion will devote portions of their editorial not only to the nuances and joys of the subject matter but to the behind-the-scenes business aspects of these industries.  It is obvious what fascinates people about these subjects and turns them into fans, but what is it that creates the desire to learn more about the business aspects of the industries?

With a printed magazine we have limited space so we have to pick and choose what we emphasize. I am curious as to what is more important to you when you receive the magazine: the passion for wine (wine recommendations and regional profiles, tastings, food pairing suggestions etc.) or the business of wine?  Should our magazine be hypothetically, 65% consumer- oriented and 35% trade- oriented?

What do you think would be the best balance for our coverage?

Halloween is upon us, and autumn, my favorite time of the year, inspires thoughts of moody evenings spent reading melancholic greats like Poe, Shelley, Lovecraft. Dark storytellers with an eye for beauty, many of these poets and novelists were also fans of fine wine and spirits—of course in some cases, to dramatic ends.

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